LAS VEGAS — It was madness, sweet madness, those mornings in May, a decade ago, on Spring Street in the SoHo neighborhood of Manhattan.

Chef Dominique Ansel had just introduced the Cronut, his pastry (now famous worldwide) made from croissant-style dough formed into doughnuts, then fried and filled with flavored cream. A blogger posted about the pastry, in an early example of food going viral (Instagram was less than 3 years old in May 2013).

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